@font-face{font-family:Editorial;src:url('./editorial.woff') format('woff');font-weight:400;font-style:normal;font-display:swap}
@font-face{font-family:Interface;src:url('./interface.woff') format('woff');font-weight:400;font-style:normal;font-display:swap}
:root{--ink:#173c46;--paper:#f8f7f3;--muted:#52666a;--line:#cdd5d3;--accent:#9b522f;--serif:Editorial,Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif;--sans:Interface,Arial,sans-serif}
*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:28px}body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font:16px/1.7 var(--sans)}
a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}img{display:block;width:100%;height:auto}button,summary{font:inherit}button,a,summary{-webkit-tap-highlight-color:transparent}
a:focus-visible,button:focus-visible,summary:focus-visible,[tabindex]:focus-visible{outline:3px solid #bc6d45;outline-offset:5px}::selection{background:#d4e6e5}
h1,h2,h3,h4,p,figure{margin:0}h1,h2,h3{font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:400;line-height:1.06;letter-spacing:-.028em;text-wrap:balance}h1{font-size:clamp(3.8rem,7.9vw,8.5rem)}h2{font-size:clamp(2.9rem,4.1vw,4.8rem)}h3{font-size:clamp(1.9rem,2.5vw,2.6rem)}h4{font:500 17px/1.5 var(--sans)}p{max-width:65ch}p+p{margin-top:1rem}em{font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:400}
.wrap{max-width:1440px;margin-inline:auto;padding-inline:5.5%}.eyebrow{font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.13em;text-transform:uppercase;line-height:1.6}.sr-only{position:absolute;width:1px;height:1px;padding:0;margin:-1px;overflow:hidden;clip:rect(0,0,0,0);white-space:nowrap;border:0}.skip{position:absolute;left:15px;top:-100px;background:white;z-index:100;padding:12px}.skip:focus{top:10px}
.site-header{position:relative;z-index:20;background:var(--paper)}.header-main{display:grid;grid-template-columns:auto minmax(0,1fr);column-gap:30px;row-gap:4px;align-items:center;padding-block:12px}.brand{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:11px;grid-row:1/3;width:max-content;max-width:100%}.brand-mark{width:35px;height:39px;flex-shrink:0}.brand-name{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:31px;letter-spacing:.025em;line-height:1.1}.brand-sub{display:block;font:12px var(--sans);letter-spacing:.14em;margin-top:7px}.languages{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:flex-end;gap:2px;flex-wrap:wrap;min-width:0}.languages a{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;font-size:14px;letter-spacing:.04em;min-width:36px;min-height:36px;padding:3px 6px;border-bottom:1px solid transparent}.languages a[aria-current]{border-color:var(--ink);font-weight:600}.languages a:hover{color:var(--accent)}.nav{display:flex;justify-content:flex-end;align-items:center;gap:12px 28px;flex-wrap:wrap;font-size:14px}.nav a{min-height:40px;display:inline-flex;align-items:center}.nav a:hover,.nav a[aria-current]{color:var(--accent)}.nav .small-cta{border-left:1px solid var(--line);padding-left:25px;gap:8px}
.hero{position:relative;color:white;min-height:clamp(660px,calc(100svh - 108px),920px);isolation:isolate;overflow:hidden}.hero>picture{position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:-2}.hero>picture img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 35%}.hero:after{content:'';position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:-1;background:linear-gradient(90deg,rgba(8,32,43,.46),rgba(8,32,43,.02) 88%),linear-gradient(0deg,rgba(8,32,43,.65),transparent 70%)}.hero-inner{min-height:inherit;display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:flex-end;padding-block:80px 48px}.hero .eyebrow{margin-bottom:22px}.hero h1{max-width:1000px}.hero h1 em{display:block}.hero-bottom{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:flex-end;gap:32px;margin-top:28px}.hero-intro{max-width:460px;font-size:17px;line-height:1.6}.hero-links{display:flex;gap:22px 28px;align-items:center;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:25px}.hero-note{font-size:12px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.12em;text-align:right;line-height:1.8;max-width:200px}
.button{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:28px;min-height:50px;padding:13px 23px;font-size:14px;border:1px solid var(--ink);background:var(--ink);color:white;transition:background .2s;white-space:normal;text-align:left}.button:hover{background:#255565}.button-light{background:var(--paper);border-color:var(--paper);color:var(--ink)}.button-light:hover{background:white}.text-link{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:24px;font-size:14px;line-height:1.6;border-bottom:1px solid currentColor;padding-block:7px;min-height:42px}.text-link:hover{color:var(--accent)}.hero .text-link:hover,.ink-section .text-link:hover{color:white}.arrow{font-family:Arial,sans-serif;font-size:20px;line-height:1;flex-shrink:0}
.facts{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,minmax(0,1fr));padding-block:31px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);gap:20px}.fact{border-right:1px solid var(--line);padding-right:18px}.fact:last-child{border:0}.fact strong{font-size:26px;line-height:1.2;font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:400;display:block}.fact span{font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.04em;display:block;margin-top:8px;color:var(--muted)}.section{padding-block:100px}.intro{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1.6fr;gap:10%}.intro .eyebrow{padding-top:10px}.intro h2{max-width:800px}.intro p{margin-top:30px;color:var(--muted);max-width:670px;font-size:18px}.intro .text-link{margin-top:25px}
.chapter{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.2fr 1fr;gap:8%;align-items:center;padding-bottom:100px}.chapter-photo img{aspect-ratio:1.08;object-fit:cover;object-position:60% 62%}.photo-label{font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.02em;padding-block:13px;color:var(--muted)}.visible-credit{display:block;font-size:12px;line-height:1.6;margin-top:8px;letter-spacing:0;color:var(--muted)}.visible-credit a{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:3px}.chapter-copy .eyebrow{color:var(--accent);margin-bottom:24px}.chapter-copy h2{margin-bottom:24px}.chapter-copy p{color:var(--muted)}.chapter-copy .text-link{margin-top:27px}
.guide-index{padding-block:85px;background:#edf0ec;border-block:1px solid var(--line)}.section-head{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:50px;align-items:flex-end;margin-bottom:45px}.section-head .eyebrow{margin-bottom:20px}.section-head p{max-width:370px;color:var(--muted);font-size:16px}.guide-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:56px 38px}.guide-card{min-width:0}.guide-image img{aspect-ratio:1.65;object-fit:cover}.guide-image figcaption{min-height:28px}.guide-copy{padding-top:23px;max-width:540px}.guide-copy .eyebrow{color:var(--accent);margin-bottom:13px}.guide-copy h3{font-size:clamp(2.3rem,3.3vw,3.25rem);margin-bottom:16px}.guide-copy h3 a:hover{color:var(--accent)}.guide-copy>p:not(.eyebrow){font-size:16px;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:18px;max-width:44ch}
.ink-section{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);padding-block:88px}.ink-section .section-head p{color:#d5e1e2}.triptych{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:32px}.story-card{border-top:1px solid #789398;padding-top:23px}.story-card .number{font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.12em;color:#b5cacc}.story-card h3{margin-top:35px;margin-bottom:20px}.story-card p{color:#d5e1e2;font-size:16px;line-height:1.8}.story-card .text-link{margin-top:26px}.panorama img{height:520px;object-fit:cover;object-position:45% 58%}.panorama-caption{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px;font-size:13px;padding-block:13px;color:var(--muted)}
.plan-grid,.faq-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.8fr 1.2fr;gap:10%}.plan-intro .eyebrow{color:var(--accent);margin-bottom:20px}.plan-intro p{margin-top:25px;color:var(--muted)}.plan-intro .button{margin-top:30px}.practical-row{display:grid;grid-template-columns:52px minmax(0,1fr);gap:17px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding:25px 0}.practical-row .number{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:27px;color:var(--accent)}.practical-row h3{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:17px;letter-spacing:0;line-height:1.6}.practical-row p{font-size:16px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:8px}.faq{padding-top:0}.faq h2{font-size:3rem}.faq .eyebrow{margin-bottom:20px}details{border-top:1px solid var(--line)}details:last-child{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}summary{cursor:pointer;list-style:none;padding:23px 36px 23px 0;position:relative;font-size:16px;line-height:1.6}summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}summary:after{content:'+';position:absolute;right:3px;top:20px;font-size:23px}details[open] summary:after{content:'−'}details>p{padding:0 30px 25px 0;color:var(--muted);font-size:16px}
.destination{background:#e7eeeb;padding-block:66px}.destination .wrap{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:40px}.destination h2{font-size:clamp(2.4rem,4vw,4.2rem)}.destination .eyebrow{margin-bottom:15px}.site-footer{background:#102f38;color:#d4e0df;padding-top:56px}.footer-top{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.25fr 1fr 1fr;gap:50px;padding-bottom:38px}.site-footer .brand{color:var(--paper)}.footer-description{font-size:14px;margin-top:24px;max-width:310px;line-height:1.8}.footer-heading{font-size:13px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.1em;margin-bottom:18px;color:white}.footer-links{display:flex;align-items:flex-start;flex-direction:column;gap:8px;font-size:14px}.footer-links a{min-height:30px;overflow-wrap:anywhere}.footer-links a:hover{text-decoration:underline}.footer-bottom{border-top:1px solid #40616a;padding-block:21px;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px;font-size:13px}.footer-bottom a{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:4px}.credits{font-size:13px;line-height:1.8;padding:15px 0 25px;color:#c0d1d0}.credits summary{font-size:14px;padding:12px 24px 12px 0}.credits summary:after{top:7px}.credits details{border-color:#40616a}.credits details>p{font-size:13px;color:#c0d1d0}.credits ul{padding-left:18px}.credits li{margin-block:8px}.credits a{text-decoration:underline}
.breadcrumb{display:flex;align-items:center;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px 14px;padding-top:28px;font-size:13px;color:var(--muted)}.breadcrumb a{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:4px}.page-heading{padding-block:34px 52px;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.3fr 1fr;gap:9%;align-items:end}.page-heading h1{font-size:clamp(3.4rem,6.4vw,6.5rem);overflow-wrap:break-word}.page-heading .eyebrow{font-size:13px;color:var(--accent);margin-bottom:24px}.page-heading p{font-size:18px;color:var(--muted)}.page-heading .guide-meta{font-size:13px;margin-top:22px}.page-visual img{aspect-ratio:2.3;object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 48%}.page-visual .visible-credit{margin:0}.article-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:230px minmax(0,1fr);gap:9%;padding-block:66px 90px}.article-grid>article{min-width:0;max-width:820px}.article-aside{align-self:start;position:sticky;top:25px;font-size:14px}.article-aside .eyebrow{margin-bottom:20px}.article-aside a{display:block;padding:12px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.article-aside a:hover{color:var(--accent)}.article-aside .aside-note{font-size:13px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:26px;max-width:30ch}.article-section{margin-bottom:58px;scroll-margin-top:30px}.article-section h2{font-size:2.9rem;margin-bottom:24px}.article-section p{color:var(--muted);font-size:17px}.article-section .text-link{margin-top:20px}.article-photo{margin-block:30px}.article-photo img{aspect-ratio:1.55;object-fit:cover}.article-photo .visible-credit{font-size:12px}.quick-visit{padding-block:25px;border-block:1px solid var(--line);display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:24px;margin:0 0 45px}.quick-visit dt{font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.08em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--muted)}.quick-visit dd{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:26px;line-height:1.3;margin:8px 0 0}.fact-panel{background:#e8eeeb;padding:26px 28px;margin:26px 0;border-left:3px solid var(--accent)}.fact-panel p{font-size:16px}.fact-panel p+p{margin-top:14px}.guide-meta{font-size:13px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:18px}.guide-meta a{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:3px}.article-section .guide-meta{font-size:13px}
.table-scroll{overflow-x:auto;max-width:100%;margin-block:24px}.visit-table{width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;font-size:16px;line-height:1.65}.visit-table th,.visit-table td{text-align:left;vertical-align:top;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:17px 18px 17px 0}.visit-table thead th{font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.08em;text-transform:uppercase}.visit-table tbody th{font-weight:500;width:32%}.route-table{min-width:480px}.route-table td:nth-child(2){width:25%}.price-table{margin-block:16px}.price-table tbody th{font-weight:400;width:70%}.price-table td{font-size:20px;white-space:normal;min-width:78px;padding-right:0}.map-panel{padding:28px;background:#e8eeeb;margin:32px 0}.map-panel svg{width:100%;height:auto;display:block}.map-panel svg text{font-family:var(--sans)}.map-panel figcaption{font-size:13px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:20px}.map-actions{display:flex;gap:12px 20px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:20px}.map-actions a{font-size:14px}.guide-notes{margin:25px 0;padding-left:22px}.guide-notes li{margin-bottom:15px;color:var(--muted)}
.day-plan{margin-block:32px;padding:30px;background:#eeeee6;border-top:2px solid var(--accent)}.day-plan h3{font-size:2.4rem;margin-bottom:14px}.day-plan>p{font-size:15px}.day-plan ol{padding:0;margin:27px 0 0;list-style:none}.day-plan li{display:grid;grid-template-columns:35px minmax(0,1fr);gap:16px;padding-block:19px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.day-plan li:last-child{padding-bottom:0}.day-number{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:26px;color:var(--accent);line-height:1.3}.day-plan li p{font-size:16px;margin-top:6px}.contact-panel{font-style:normal;background:#e8eeeb;padding:26px;margin-top:24px;display:flex;align-items:flex-start;flex-direction:column;gap:8px}.contact-panel p+p{margin:0}.contact-panel .eyebrow{font-size:13px}.contact-panel a{font-size:16px;text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:4px;overflow-wrap:anywhere;min-height:32px}.contact-panel .contact-map{font-size:14px;margin-top:5px}.inline-sources{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:6px 18px;font-size:13px;margin-top:20px;color:var(--muted)}.inline-sources a{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:3px}.related-guide{border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin-top:50px;padding-top:25px}.related-guide .eyebrow{margin-bottom:15px}.related-guide a{margin-right:20px;margin-bottom:10px}.source-list{display:flex;gap:12px 23px;flex-wrap:wrap;font-size:14px}.source-list a{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:4px}.sources{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-block:25px 35px;color:var(--muted)}.sources .eyebrow{margin-bottom:14px}.sources p{font-size:13px;margin-top:14px}
h1,h2,h3,h4,.fact,.text-link,.button{overflow-wrap:break-word}.article-grid p{hyphens:auto}
@media(min-width:1700px){.hero h1{font-size:9rem}}
@media(max-width:1000px){.wrap{padding-inline:5%}.nav{gap:8px 20px}.nav .small-cta{padding-left:18px}.hero-note{display:none}.intro{gap:7%;grid-template-columns:.7fr 1.3fr}.chapter{gap:6%}.section{padding-block:75px}.chapter{padding-bottom:75px}.triptych{gap:25px}.plan-grid,.faq-grid{gap:7%;grid-template-columns:.8fr 1.2fr}.footer-top{gap:30px}.page-heading{gap:6%}.article-grid{gap:6%;grid-template-columns:180px minmax(0,1fr)}.guide-grid{gap:42px 28px}}
@media(max-width:720px){.header-main{align-items:start;gap:10px 18px;padding-block:15px 6px}.brand{grid-row:1;gap:8px;margin-top:5px}.brand-mark{width:26px;height:34px}.brand-name{font-size:25px}.brand-sub{font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.03em}.languages{gap:0;max-width:198px;justify-self:end}.languages a{min-width:36px;min-height:36px;padding-inline:3px;font-size:13px}.nav{grid-column:1/-1;justify-content:space-between;gap:4px 16px;font-size:14px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:5px}.nav a{min-height:44px}.nav .small-cta{display:none}.hero{min-height:650px}.hero-inner{padding-block:64px 38px}.hero>picture img{object-position:56% 38%}.hero:after{background:linear-gradient(0deg,rgba(8,32,43,.8),rgba(8,32,43,.05) 93%)}.hero h1{font-size:clamp(3.4rem,12vw,5.3rem);line-height:1.02;letter-spacing:-.035em}.hero .eyebrow{font-size:12px;margin-bottom:20px;max-width:290px}.hero-intro{font-size:16px;line-height:1.65;max-width:400px}.hero-bottom{margin-top:24px}.hero-links{margin-top:26px;gap:16px 24px}.hero-links .button{padding:12px 18px;gap:21px}.hero-links .text-link{gap:12px}.facts{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;padding-block:26px;gap:22px}.fact:nth-child(2){border:0}.fact strong{font-size:25px}.fact span{font-size:13px}.section{padding-block:63px}.intro{display:block}.intro .eyebrow{padding:0;margin-bottom:28px}.intro p{font-size:17px;margin-top:23px}.intro h2,h2{font-size:2.9rem}.chapter{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:34px;padding-bottom:65px}.chapter-photo{width:100%}.chapter-photo img{aspect-ratio:1.1}.chapter-copy .eyebrow{margin-bottom:18px}.chapter-copy h2{font-size:2.9rem}.guide-index{padding-block:58px}.section-head{display:block;margin-bottom:30px}.section-head p{margin-top:25px;max-width:50ch}.section-head .eyebrow{margin-top:0}.guide-copy h3{font-size:2.4rem}.guide-copy .eyebrow{font-size:12px}.guide-copy{padding-top:19px}.ink-section{padding-block:60px}.triptych{display:block}.story-card{padding-top:22px;padding-bottom:30px;display:grid;grid-template-columns:35px minmax(0,1fr);column-gap:15px}.story-card .number{padding-top:4px}.story-card h3{margin-top:0;font-size:2.3rem}.story-card p,.story-card .text-link{grid-column:2}.story-card .text-link{justify-self:start}.panorama img{height:360px}.panorama-caption{font-size:12px;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px}.plan-grid,.faq-grid{display:block}.practical-list{margin-top:38px}.plan-intro h2{max-width:450px}.faq{padding-top:0}.faq h2{font-size:2.8rem;margin-bottom:34px}.destination{padding-block:50px}.destination .wrap{display:block}.destination .button{margin-top:28px}.footer-top{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:35px 22px}.footer-brand{grid-column:1/-1}.footer-description{max-width:100%}.site-footer{padding-top:40px}.breadcrumb{padding-top:24px}.page-heading{display:block;padding-block:27px 35px}.page-heading h1{font-size:clamp(3.2rem,11vw,4.5rem)}.page-heading p{font-size:17px;margin-top:25px}.page-heading .eyebrow{font-size:13px;margin-top:0}.page-visual img{aspect-ratio:1.5}.article-grid{display:block;padding-block:36px 60px}.article-aside{position:static;margin-bottom:35px}.article-aside .aside-note{display:none}.article-aside nav{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:0 18px}.article-aside nav a{padding:10px 0}.article-section h2{font-size:2.6rem}.article-section p{font-size:16px}.article-section{margin-bottom:45px}.quick-visit{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:15px;margin-bottom:35px}.quick-visit div{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding-bottom:14px}.quick-visit div:last-child{border:0;padding:0}.quick-visit dd{font-size:25px;margin-top:2px}.fact-panel{padding:24px 20px}.map-panel{padding:18px 12px}.map-actions{gap:5px 18px}.day-plan{padding:25px 20px}.day-plan li{gap:10px}.contact-panel{padding:23px 20px}.article-photo img{aspect-ratio:1.35}.footer-bottom{font-size:12px}}
@media(max-width:640px){.guide-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:40px}.guide-image img{aspect-ratio:1.55}.guide-copy h3{font-size:2.65rem}.guide-copy{max-width:none}.guide-image figcaption{min-height:0}}
@media(max-width:380px){.header-main{gap:9px 12px}.brand{gap:5px}.brand-name{font-size:22px}.brand-mark{width:22px}.brand-sub{font-size:12px;letter-spacing:0}.languages a{min-width:34px}.hero-links{flex-direction:column;align-items:flex-start;gap:18px}.hero h1{font-size:3.3rem}.footer-top{grid-template-columns:1fr}.footer-brand{grid-column:auto}.footer-bottom{flex-wrap:wrap}.page-heading h1{font-size:3.2rem}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}*,*:before,*:after{transition:none!important}}
@media print{.site-header,.site-footer,.destination,.hero-links,.map-actions,.breadcrumb{display:none}.wrap{padding:0;max-width:none}.page-visual{max-height:220px;overflow:hidden}.article-grid{display:block}.article-aside{display:none}.article-section,.map-panel,.contact-panel{break-inside:avoid}.table-scroll{overflow:visible}.route-table{min-width:0}a{color:inherit}.guide-index{display:none}}